Many Living Atlas items ultimately resolve to services hosted on ArcGIS Online (*.arcgis.com) or external endpoints.
Your Enterprise token is valid for your Enterprise domain, but not valid for ArcGIS Online, so the request gets 498.
Check the layer’s actual service URL. If it’s services.arcgis.com / utility.arcgis.com, you must authenticate against ArcGIS Online (or access it anonymously if public).
In R: open the service URL directly (not just itemId), and use the correct auth context for that host.
If your org uses subscriber content, you may need an AGOL OAuth token (same user) in addition to Enterprise auth.
Token must match the host that serves the data.
Regards,
Venkat
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